03 March 2009

Wait, there aren't Barnes & Nobles in Africa?

Despite the lack of in-store Starbucks serving caramel macchiatos, the bookstores have some interesting selections: Criminal Law of Botswana, Setswana-English phrasebooks and the latest from Robert Ludlum of "Bourne Identity" fame. While I have not been reading nearly as quickly as I'd like, (the heat sure takes a lot out of me during the day) I have made significant progress on a number of books. This blog will give my take, thus far, on a number of books and a few CD's from and about Africa.

First up on the review is Martin Meredith's "Mugabe: Power, Plunder and the Struggle for Zimbabwe". I just finished it tonight and it was like everything else I've read by Meredith: straightforward, accessible, and concise. With people already familiar with Meredith's subject matter, it will probably not be of great use, but as a Zimbabwe crisis primer, it's indispensable. The 2007 update of the original 2002 edition only proves how hopelessly stagnant the situation is next door to Botswana. Check it out on Amazon.


The first president of Botswana was at one time exiled before independence. Why? Because he married a white woman. Susan Williams' "Colour Bar: The Triumph of Seretse Khama and his Nation" follows the star-crossed marriage of Seretse and Ruth Khama when Botswana was still Bechuanaland, a British protectorate. Their marriage was condemned by apartheid South Africa and nearly caused conflict between the UK and South Africa. Williams' writing is extremely well-researched, lucid and surprisingly riveting. Khama remains a great figure in Botswana and knowing his story is knowing Botswana's. Available here.


Like geology? Agriculture? Economics? There is little that is not covered John Reader's encyclopedic and almost self-aggrandizing "Africa: A Biography of the Continent". The 682-page tome includes chapters like "Zulu Myth and Realities", "Bananas and Cattle", and "The Invention of Africa". Each chapter is nearly self-contained, and chock-full of fascinating facts. What sets this project apart, however, is that the majority of the book is about Africa before formal colonialism began in the 1880's. Reader pushes us to explore the history of a continent long before military coups were the norm, while simultaneously dispelling myths of a pastoral Arcadia. Mosquitos and elephants have determined the farming patterns of Africans for centuries, hampering local economies long before IMF structural adjustment loans existed. For those willing brave enough to tackle this behemoth biography, it's well worth it.

The only novel I've been reading here in Botswana, is actually Kenyan. Perhaps the country's most famous native son, Ngugi wa Thiong'o, was imprisoned as a political prisoner in the 1970's. His novels are snapshots and critiques of life and politics in Kenya and "Devil on the Cross" is no exception. In fact, according to legend, Ngugi wrote it on the prison's toilet paper. As I'm only halfway through I don't feel I can give it a just review. When I'm done, perhaps I will share some more thoughts.

What's this? You want to shake what your African mother gave you? Yes, music, the music of Mother Africa. While "house" music is the musique du jour here in Botswana, most of us Americans find the heavy beats and techno-feel a bit overwhelming, leaving us reaching for the Advil. But just as hip-hop does not need to define American music, "house" music is only one facet of a continent known for its complicated rythyms and musicality.

First off, two African giants are worth listening to no matter which CD you find: Miriam Makeba, of South Africa, and Youssou N'Dour, of Senegal. Along with Ladysmith Black Mambazo, also from South Africa, these African artists have made a name for contemporary African music in the wider world. Now for more of my finds while here in Botswana . . .

South African music is huge in this country. There are a multitude of reasons for this. Botswana's small population and economy have always been tightly linked to South Africa, and the large musical output coming from Jo-burg to Cape Town is no match for the up-and-comers from Gaborone. It is no surprise, then, that one can hear Brenda Fassie, the so-called Queen of African Pop, on any radio station. One of my favorites is her track "Nomakanjani", although many locals prefer her big hits like "Weekend Special". The latter I heard while on my bus ride from Kasane to Francistown and couldn't resist humming along. I'm finally fitting in . . .

Yet another South African musical invader is the township music out of Johannesburg. With a long history stretching back before the student riots in Soweto, township music has undergone many transformations from a laid-back, reggae-like feel to the more contemporary kwaito. Some artists on my compilation include Chirro, Yvonne Chaka Chaka, and Cijamlenze Nkwanyana. If you've ever seen a documentary of Hollywood film about Africa, watch the scene where the journalist is driving in a cramped bus, and this is inevitably the soundtrack.

Up last is local hit, Captain Dira, whose new album "Ke Itse Keje" is advertised everywhere in town. Against traditional African gospel harmony and whistles, Captain Dira takes on difficult relationship issues and social vices like drugs. Now only if I knew enough Setswana to understand the lyrics, I am sure the contrast between the words and the upbeat music would be fascinating. Alas, tis not the case.

More so than any other post, the hyperlinks here are very useful. Much of this music is hard to buy in the US, and so I encourage you to waste away a day at work on Youtube, clicking, clicking, clicking away! And while you're at it, get up, and shake what this traditional Setswana mother gave ya.

1 comment:

  1. My fave post by you so far, hands down.

    ReplyDelete